A tree spade is one of the biggest single investments a young tree service or landscaping crew will make. It is also one of the few pieces of equipment that, when bought right, pays for itself on the first big transplant job and keeps paying for years after. That is exactly why so many contractors start with a used machine. A good used tree spade lets you take on dig-and-move work without tying up the capital a brand-new unit requires.

The catch is that not every used tree spade for sale is a good deal. The difference between a machine that runs another 15 years and one that nickel-and-dimes you to death often comes down to a careful pre-purchase inspection and knowing who you are buying from. This guide walks you through where used spades come from, how to inspect one like a pro, the red flags that should send you walking, and how the cost math really works once you factor in financing and reconditioning.

Big John Tree Transplanter Mfg, Inc. has been building tree spades in Heber Springs, Arkansas since 1975. We sell both new and used machines, and we recondition trade-ins in the same shop where we build the new ones. So we have seen what a worn-out spade looks like and what separates a smart used buy from a costly one.

Where Used Tree Spades Come From

Before you inspect anything, it helps to understand the source. Used tree spades on the market today generally come from one of three places, and the source tells you a lot about the risk you are taking on.

Private-party and auction sales

These are spades sold directly by another contractor, or through an equipment auction or online marketplace. The price can look attractive, but you are buying as-is. There is rarely a warranty, no shop has gone through the machine, and you are trusting the seller’s word on hours, maintenance, and history. Some of these machines are honest deals. Others are being sold precisely because something expensive is starting to fail.

Dealer trade-ins

Some equipment dealers take tree spades on trade and resell them. The level of inspection varies widely. A few dealers genuinely service what they sell. Many simply pressure-wash the unit, repaint it, and put it on the lot without ever pulling a cylinder or checking pin wear.

Reconditioned units from the original manufacturer

This is the category we know best. When a customer trades in a Big John spade, the machine comes back to the same Heber Springs factory that built it. Our crew inspects it, replaces worn parts, tests the hydraulics, and warranties the result. Our used inventory rotates as units come in and go back out, and at any given time you might see a reconditioned 45D, 65D, or 90D ready to ship across the USA. You can see what is currently available on our used equipment page.

The point is not that private sales are always bad. The point is that the further you get from a shop that actually knows the machine, the more the inspection burden falls on you.

The Pre-Purchase Inspection: What to Check Before You Buy

If you take nothing else from this article, take this section. A used tree spade inspection is not complicated, but it is detailed. You are checking the systems that do the work and the parts that wear. Bring a flashlight, a rag, gloves, and ideally a buddy who can operate the controls while you watch the machine move. If the seller will not let you cycle the spade through a full open-close-tilt sequence, that is a problem in itself.

Here is what to look at, system by system.

Blades

The blades are the heart of the machine. They take the most abuse and they are the most expensive wear items to ignore.

• Look for cracks, especially along the leading edge and where the blade meets its guide.
• Check for excessive wear or thinning at the cutting edge. A blade that has been ground or built up by a previous owner may not seat correctly.
• Confirm all blades are present and matched. Mismatched or aftermarket blades can cause uneven digging and root-ball damage.
• Watch the blades close fully and evenly during a cycle. Blades that do not meet cleanly mean alignment or wear problems upstream.

Hydraulics

The hydraulic system is where age and abuse hide. Take your time here.

• Inspect every hose for cracking, bulging, abrasion, and weeping at the fittings. Hoses are cheap to replace but a failure mid-dig is messy and dangerous.
• Look for active leaks at fittings, manifolds, and cylinder rod seals. Wipe surfaces clean, then run the machine and look again.
• Check the hydraulic fluid. It should be clean, not milky (water contamination) or dark and burnt (overheating).
• Listen and feel for the system cycling smoothly. Jerky, slow, or hesitating movement points to pump, valve, or fluid problems.

Pins and Bushings

These small parts tell you how hard the machine has worked.

• Grab each blade and arm and check for play. Excessive slop at the pivot points means worn pins and bushings.
• Look for elongated (egg-shaped) pin holes, which mean the wear has moved into the frame itself and is far more expensive to fix.
• Confirm grease zerks are present and that the pivot points have actually been greased. Dry, scored pins are a sign of neglected maintenance.

Frame and Structure

The frame is the one thing you cannot easily replace.

• Inspect all welds, especially at high-stress joints, for cracks or signs of re-welding.
• Look for bent or tweaked members, which suggest the machine was overloaded or hit something hard.
• Check for heavy rust beyond surface scale. Surface rust is normal. Flaking, pitting, or rust that has eaten into structural steel is not.

Pump

The pump drives everything. A failing pump is one of the costlier repairs.

• Listen for whining, knocking, or cavitation noise under load.
• Confirm the system builds and holds pressure. Weak or fading power during a dig is a warning sign.
• Check for leaks at the pump seals and inspect the drive coupling.

Cylinders

The cylinders do the heavy lifting, and worn cylinders are common on high-hour machines.

• Look for scoring, pitting, or rust on the chrome rods.
• Check for rod-seal leaks (oil filming on the rod after a cycle).
• Watch for drift. With the load held, a cylinder that slowly creeps means internal seals are passing fluid.

Mount and Hitch

Finally, confirm the spade actually fits and connects to your carrier.

• Verify the mount style matches your truck, skid steer, or loader. A mismatch means added cost and fabrication.
• Inspect the hitch, sub-frame, and mounting hardware for cracks, wear, and missing bolts.
• Check that quick-attach plates and locking pins engage fully and securely.

Red Flags That Mean Walk Away

Some problems are negotiating points. Others are deal-breakers. These are the signs that the machine is more risk than it is worth, no matter how low the price:

• The seller refuses to let you run the spade through a full cycle.
• Fresh paint over suspicious areas, which can hide cracks, re-welds, or leaks.
• Milky hydraulic fluid, which means water has gotten into the system.
• Cracked or re-welded frame members at load-bearing joints.
• Elongated pin holes in the frame, signaling deep, expensive wear.
• Multiple cylinders drifting or leaking at once.
• No maintenance history and a seller who is vague about the machine’s working hours.
• A mount that does not match your carrier with no clear path to adapt it.

One or two minor items are normal on any used machine and give you room to negotiate. A stack of these together usually means you are buying someone else’s problem.

New vs Used: The Real Cost Tradeoff

The sticker price is only part of the story. Here is how to think about new versus used honestly.

A used tree spade has a lower upfront cost, which frees up cash for the rest of your operation: the truck, the crew, the marketing that brings in dig jobs. For a contractor buying their first or second spade, that capital flexibility is often the deciding factor. The tradeoff is that an as-is used machine carries unknown wear, and any repairs come out of your pocket from day one.

A new tree spade costs more upfront but gives you a known starting point, a full service life ahead of it, and a manufacturer warranty. If you are running high volume and cannot afford downtime, new can be the cheaper choice over the life of the machine.

A reconditioned unit from the original manufacturer sits in between, and for many buyers it is the sweet spot. You get a lower-than-new price, but the major wear items have already been inspected and replaced, and the machine carries a warranty. The unknowns that make private-party used sales risky are largely taken off the table.

When you run the math, do not just compare sticker prices. Compare the total cost of ownership: purchase price, plus expected repairs, plus the value of downtime, plus warranty coverage. A cheap private-party spade that needs a pump and two cylinders can quickly cost more than a reconditioned unit that ran right out of the gate. Our tree spade buying guide walks through sizing and model selection so you match the machine to your actual job mix.

Financing Your Used Tree Spade

A lower upfront price is good. Spreading that price into predictable monthly payments can be even better for cash flow, especially when you are still building your book of dig work.

Big John offers financing through Oakmont Capital, with commercial equipment loans that typically run from 24 to 60 months. That lets you match the payment to your revenue and keep working capital in the business instead of sinking it all into the machine on day one. Used and reconditioned units can be financed too, not just new builds. You can start the conversation on our financing page.

The practical takeaway: financing a reconditioned spade often gives you the best of both worlds, a manageable monthly payment on a machine that has already been gone through and warrantied.

Why Buying From the Original Manufacturer Beats a Private Sale

When you buy a reconditioned Big John spade, you are buying from the only people who have built that exact machine for decades. That matters in concrete ways.

Every used unit we sell is shop-tested before it ships and comes with a warranty, so you are not gambling on hidden wear. Because we build these spades in one factory in Heber Springs, we know every part, every weld, and every common wear point. If you ever need a part, in-stock parts ship same-day from Heber Springs, and our team supports the machine for its full service life through our sales and service department. We ship reconditioned units across the USA, so your location is not a barrier.

Compare that to a private-party sale where the machine is as-is, the history is whatever the seller tells you, and you are on your own for parts and support after the check clears. The price might be lower on paper. The peace of mind, the warranty, and the same-day parts pipeline rarely are.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it worth buying a used tree spade instead of new?

For many first- and second-time buyers, yes. A used or reconditioned tree spade lowers your upfront cost and frees up capital for the rest of your operation. The key is buying a unit that has been properly inspected, ideally a reconditioned machine from the manufacturer, so you are not inheriting hidden wear.

What should I inspect on a used tree spade before buying?

Check the blades, hydraulics, pins and bushings, frame, pump, cylinders, and the mount or hitch. Look for cracks, leaks, excessive play, frame damage, and cylinder drift, and insist on running the machine through a full operating cycle. Use the checklist in this article and bring it with you.

What are the biggest red flags when buying a used tree spade?

The worst signs are a seller who will not let you operate the machine, fresh paint hiding suspect areas, milky hydraulic fluid, cracked or re-welded frame joints, elongated pin holes, and multiple leaking or drifting cylinders. Any of these alone is reason to pause. Several together usually means walking away.

Can I finance a used or reconditioned tree spade?

Yes. Big John offers financing through Oakmont Capital, with commercial equipment loans that generally run 24 to 60 months, and reconditioned units qualify, not just new builds. Visit our financing page to start the process.

Why buy a reconditioned spade from Big John instead of a private seller?

Reconditioned Big John units are inspected and tested in the same Heber Springs factory that built them, come with a warranty, and are backed by same-day in-stock parts and full service support. A private-party sale is as-is with no warranty and no support after the sale, which puts all the risk on you.